Bought this to replace damaged cord on John Deere JS26 Walk-Behind Push Mower. LIke almost all parts on that John Deere model, most are made by Briggs and Straton - so this is a perfect fit and diameter appeared to be the same. For my mower there was only ~10" of new cord that wasn't used. Just throwing that out there in case someone thinks there will be enough cord to do two mowers - there isn't.If you happen to be reading this and you also have a John Deere JS26, I was surprised at how much had to be removed to gain access to the spooler to replace the cord. The top plastic cover has 2 phillips screws and then there's 3 bolts on the top shroud and another 4 or 5 bolts around the shroud. And then you have to remove the oil filler/dip stick. Not horrible - just surprising as other mowers are much easier. Once the spooler's been removed, replacing the cord is the same as other mowers -- recommend just watch a couple utube videos.

It’s an OEM part used as intended .

Jup

More than enough cord to replace broken pull start cord on my 1981 3HP tiller. I just cut off the excess.

Die Kordel scheint etwas dünner als das Original zu sein, eignet sich aber trotzdem sehr gut zum Anlassen des Motors...

On Sunday the starter cord broke on my Hayter Harrier 41. Getting a repair at this time of year typically takes 2-3 weeks. I looked at the online guidance and whilst in theory it is easy to replace the starter cord in reality on the Hayter Harrier it is a nightmare to get at. But then I read the review by D. Raybould (30 Apr 2013) and it suddenly looked easy. My cord had broken but the end was still accessible. So I ordered the replacement and followed the instructions. Simply brilliant. I would only add a few additional pieces of advice: (1) When trying to pull the cord out it helps to hold the kill switch on, which to me was counter intuitive; (2) To make turning the engine over I removed the spark plug. (3) Because my cord had broken it was hard to pull out and whilst I thought I had pulled it fully out I hadn't, so I had to use a pair of screwdrivers to wind the recoil back an extra couple of turns; (4) The correct knots to use are figure of eight, and if you don't know how to tie on use your favourite search engine; (5) Do remember to thread the new cord through the guide on the handle, else you have to undo it all again; (6) The cord as supplied was the perfect length so don't shorten it - at least on a Hayter Harrier 41.A big big thnak you to D. Raybould for his excellent advice.

I have an old Hayter 41 petrol mower and after 16 years of use the starter rope was about to die. This is the correct length and is easy to fit provided you don't let the old rope snap which means the recoil will drag in the rope. If you have the old rope intact and about to far then don't risk it, get this rope and fit it.TIP: Remove the top cover to gain access to the recoil unit. Pull the old rope out until it hits the stop. Put a thin screwdriver through the slats to lock the recoil in place. Take some long nose pliers and pull out the old rope. You can cut close to the entry point now and make a note of where the rope enters the recoil.IMPORTANT : Remove the old pull handle FIRST and connect the new rope! If you don't and you connect the recoil end first it could mean you'll let go of the rope and the recoil will pull it all in! You will then have to remove the recoil to get to the rope and trust me that is a pain. So with the handle now connected tie a single knot and pull the rope into the handle. Now you can thread the the other end into the recoil unit and tie a single knot. Ensure the knot is seated properly and there is no long end to foul the mechanism. Take hold of the rope and take the strain as the the recoil is going to pull it in. Remove the screwdriver and then slowly let the recoil pull the rope in. Voilà! That is all you need and now you have a new rope fitted. Just loosen the guide fixings on the mover handle frame if you have them and then insert the rope so the rope is routed correctly. That's it....hopefully! Good luck!